Plans Compliments of Stellar Technologies International
Click here to see photos and details of the outside and inside trimming.
Wood Framing Dimensions & Details for the Arrow Shed LX108
1. Begin assembly of the Gables and Roof Beams in Step 12 of the Arrow manual. Do not mount the roof panels at this time, just the above metal framing.
2. Cut the wooden roof frame from 2x4s using the dimensions above. Make sure the corners are mitered and square. Corner reinforcement using iron L's on the top and bottom of the corners will provide adequate rigidity. Be sure you use the best 2x4s available that are dry and not warped.
3. Turn the frame over and mount the castors. I used and recommend plain plastic 2" castors with fixed rollers. They should have metal bases that can be attached with wood screws. Place 4 of them equidistantly on each side of the frame. The castors should be centered in the middle of the 2x4. Draw a center line along the length of the 2x4 as a guide. The roof structure is very light so that castor strength is not that important. There is no need for metal castors or steel guide rails or the like using this kit.
4. Turn the frame back over so it is now resting on the castors.
5. Place the Gables and Roof Beam assembly on the wood frame. Center it and square it. The 2x4 frame should extend about 1 inch on both sides of the front and back gable.
6. Screw down the gable assembly using the holes that are already drilled. If you want to add a few extra screws, go ahead.
7. This assembly will still be wobbly until the roof panels are added later.
8. Now make the 2x4 wall frame based on the dimensions above. Make sure the inside dimension is 84.5" between the front and rear 2x4s, and that the structure is square.
9. Complete the foundation and wall assembly according to the Arrow instruction manual from steps 1 to 11.
10. Place the wooden wall frame assembly on top of the walls. You will need help doing this since both this frame and the roof frame will flex and possibly break if it is not carried evenly. Neither structure is particularly heavy, but they are cumbersome.
11. Support the ends of the 2x4 rails that extend out temporarily with 4x4 studs that have been planted temporarily. The very last step should be leveling the studs to the exact height and cementing them. Don't do this first.
12. Screw the 2x4 wall frame to the metal wall structure using wood screws in the predrilled holes. You will notice that the metal top side rails are angled to the tilt of the roof, and not 90 degrees. If you want to bend them to 90 degrees, go ahead. You really do not have to.
13. Place the rolling roof wooden frame and gable structure on top of the walls and center it Carefully test it to make sure it rolls freely and that the castors make proper contact. If any adjustments are necessary, carry them out now.
14. Complete the roof by following steps 14-17 in the Arrow instruction manual. Make sure you thoroughly calk the area around every screw that attaches the roof panels and seal every crack.
15. Now cut the guide rails. These are made of 1x4s which are screwed to the wall 2x4s on the inside of the shed. Align the top of the 1x4s so that the roof section will slide freely without touching them. Try to leave no more than 1/4" gap between these 1x4s and the upper roof frame structure. Line all of the internal wall 2x4s with the 1x4s neatly, always making sure that the roof will roll with no contact with them whatsoever. I provide no measurements here since you can do a better job taking your own.
16. Embed the two 4x4 studs that hold the side rails and adjust their height carefully so that the side rails are level. Screw the side rail 2x4s to the top of the 4x4s to hold them in place. Cement the studs.
17. Now cut the remaining outside guide rails from 1x4s and attach them to the 2x4 side rails that are supported by the 4x4 studs on the outside of the shed. This completes the track assembly.
18. If you are the anxious type, you can make a roof stop by nailing a couple of 1x4 blocks on the end of the rails.
19. Complete the trimming and sealing of the shed referring to the photographs provided.
Note: Arrow provides an optional foundation 'kit' for this structure which you may or may not require depending on what type of foundation you would like. If you are pouring a concrete foundation first, you do not need this kit. If you do pour a concrete foundation, you should make its dimensions smaller than the shed so that there will be no water entry. Also, make sure that your foundation is no more than 4 inches above the ground so that the shed wall height is maintained.
My own suggestion is that you buy the foundation kit, and then pour a concrete foundation on the inside later using the walls themselves as the mold (except the front where the sliding doors go). Line the inside walls with thick plastic sheeting or styrofoam sheeting to prevent future rusting. This will provide the very best anchoring for the structure, plus you will have an exact idea of how high you want your pier and the floor to be, able to place your electrical conduits in the right places, etc. Many folks make the mistake of planting their piers first, and then finding out later that the walls are too high, too low, etc. Since this is a metal shed kit, you do not have the privilege of shimming walls up and down after the mistake has been made. Measure. Measure. And measure again. Arrow makes a very fine shed which has been precisely manufactured and predrilled. During assembly, if you run across holes which do line up properly, it should be an indication that you did something wrong. Go back and double-check your assembly, leveling, etc. Since this is a permanent structure, take your time. Do it once. Do it right.
Clear Skies!
